The Chong King Mansion has always been a place full of 'flows': lots of people walking through, lots of trading going on (be it goods or money), and the flow of scent (from kitchens cooking strong smelling spices). But the Christian Action was a space that visibilized the static, the stuck, the 'neither here nor there' .
Chong King was described in tour books as 'the most globalized place in Hong Kong'. But what we sawwas a melting pot not just of ethnicities, but different aspects of globalization as they converge in the same time and space.
Jonathon provided us with a very substantial briefing. The application for a refugee status itself might take 2 years, thanks to the bureaucracy of the UNHCR. But if one's application is denied, then he or she might have to wait indefinitely for their case to be appealed. We were shocked, and to the dismay of the incoming asylum seekers, that Hong Kong, despite its international outlook, has never signed the UNHCR Convention for Refugees. The 'one country two systems' gives Hong Kong the allowance for not becoming a signatory even though our motherland is. But I thought most of us were more struck by the many stories that flowed from the asylum seekers: how they had to flee from persecution and separate from loved ones. But whilst they were trying to escape from a once homeland which presents no future for them, they may be faced with a grimmer future here -- waiting.
I did not find out why Kafu had to flee Congo, but I got a full load of how we are seen from the 'Other's' eyes: 'I am very disappointed here. You cannot really find a friend here. Hong kong people are somewhat closed somewhere inside (he placed his hand on his heart). You cannot break through.' Everything seems to take more time here, even asking to change a 10 dollar note. 'The first person just said "Go, Go!" The second person replied "no change!" when there are many coins right in front of him on the table. The third one, a restauranteur, quickly slid the two levers shut, even before Kafu finished his sentence. It was only until the fourth guy who offered to change for him. He knew he had to rely on himself to go through life here, but there isn't much to do. There was talk of plans, like becoming a car engineer (his eyes glittered for a while), but he wouldn't know where he would be next, and there would be no garages here in Hong Kong that he could put theory into practice. Coming to English class would be one highlight in the week (even though he speaks quite good English), even though it takes a while to travel from Yuen Long (where he lives) to TST (not to mention the fare). Christian ACtion does more than just to help him kill time, but to help him connect with fellow 'comrades', and realize that he is not alone.
In the next room, Kanas and Mark were shocked and saddened by the story of a Tamil woman who got separated from her family as the country was torn by political rife and ethnic hatred. It may not be clear exactly how economic, political and cultural globalization has clawed its way into affecting the livelihood of the developing economies, (which somehow may aggravate ethnic hostility). But for the Sri Lankan woman, globalization in terms of universal rights such as political and religious freedom may grant her the rights to apply for refugee status, and to seek better future in countries such as Canada. But what good is this future which is exchanged with the separation from her beloved, who are still under duress at home?
Back on the ground floor, the image of globalization is a stark contrast -- affluence, vibrance, diversity and flow. Clothes shops, food shops, VCD shops, mobile phone shops overflowed with colourful goods, but onlookers chose to just stream past. In fact, staying put becomes almost an oddity, even a crime (we were told not to obstruct the passageway a few times). My plot was to try conversing with some shopkeepers, pretending to show interest in the goods they sell. One shop which sells women's clothes turns out to be owned by a Hong Kong Chinese. It also turns out that everything in that shop was too large for someone of my size. The reason is that the clothes are meant for African businessmen when they come through Hong Kong to shop for clothes to be sold back home. The HOng Kong shopkeeper claims to have got the big sized clothes from BHS, a UK equivalent of Walmart. When he opened this shop four years ago, rents were more affordable compared to those in the shopping centres of public housing estates. 'Link Reit raised the rent until it's too much.' Asked how he copes with the ethnic mix at Chung King, he grinned, 'they are alright. We don't really chat too much.' But he remarked a growing number of mainland Chinese, who would come for the day, try to sell some fake phones or watches, then go back. As we parted, he warned us, 'don't enter into business. Times are hard!' Further down the hallway, though, some Africans might beg to differ, as they werebusy packing stuff in big cardboard boxes ready to be shipped to different parts of the world. The sight and sound of celotapes slashing away turns the hallway into a warehouse.
We ventured into one VCD shop which was littered with millions of VCDs of Bollywood films and music, but once we stepped inside, an overpowering fragrance filled our senses. After 15 seconds of browsing around, we were approached by an Indian woman who asked, curtly, 'What do you want?' 'Um, is "Katz" very popular in India?' I quickly squeezed out a question as I shot a glance at a wall poster.' 'Oh, that one's not out yet. They are showing it here soon though.' When asked how long she has run this shop, the proud shopkeeper replied with the same cool manners, 'Only 31 years. Only 31 years'. Silence. We said our 'thank you' and got out, fearing they might give us the boot.
McLuhan may be thrilled to find a global village of Chung King Mansion, but the space proves to epitomize the dynamics, as well as problems of globalization left, right and centre, and in diverse faces, scent, taste, sound and touch. As different entities travel and converge at this crossroad, identities and subjectivities are dialogued and contested at each junction and corner. Somethings blend (like the perfume with the kitchen smell), others co-exist. Flows solidify as they get stuck in Blocks A to E, along with the hopes that are packed in cardboard boxes, or penned in refugee status application forms. One can only dream on.
As we walked back to the entrance about to bid each other goodbye, Yvonne bade us to take a photo, 'to show others that we have been here'. A South Asian guy came up and asked if we were Japanese. I gave a quick glance at our group - an ethnic mix of Sri Lankan, mainland Chinese and Hong Kong - 'No'. 'You are not Japanese?'
Our Japanese cameras betrayed us.
Lisa
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3 comments:
Well, as Dan(?) pointed out, there is hope in Hong Kongs youth, perhaps this situation will improve?
I feel that in Chong King mansion, the main object that unites is money. And this is not just restricted to Hong Kong, while this brings people together, it's temporary and superficial.
Change needs to come from a deeper human understanding. I feel like a one world culture would break down many of the cultural barriers we erect, culture can be such a wall sometimes; people would no longer flock to just their own kind
I agree with you Mark, but I think to really effect more genuine cultural exchange and understanding, it has to happen at many different levels, all of which will involve money, which is getting more unevenly distributed, even the government could be rendered a weak power. But of course you are right, promoting more exchanges among our youth is very important, and that's why I think student exchange programmes are so important. globalization in terms of money and commodity exchange can promote a superficial level of cultural exchange; the problem is, as we know, we often would define a culture through the products and commodities we identify as originating from those cultures (like Indian curry and sari), but at least it provides a leeway for deeper cultural exchange, and that's where the potentials of Chung King as a site lies. What do you think could be developed at Chung King towards this?
That would be hard to provide such a platform in Chung King, everyone seems to just breeze by and do their own thing. Even the resteraunts I observed were filled with people who either ate alone or with their fellow country men. In Chong King mansion true cultural exchange happens at places like Christian Action. Otherwise its other patrons dont really want to mix with anyone else, in fact it's all very business like, the owners of the establishments werent particularly friendly either.
What would be interesting to note is that in Hong Kong the only place where I see cultural exchange truly take place is at Lan Kwai Fong or Soho, where people mingle freely with each other. But then again these people have largely the same background, all work in Hong Kong, speak english and are relatively affluent. Alcohol I'm sure also helps as a social lubricant.
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